| Listen to the song about her!
The ultimate goal was to build her in a day. (See
Easy does it?)
This design evolved from the "Least Cuts Boat" or LCB.
Inspired by Lew Clayman on the boat design list.
(updated June 19, 2002)
See photos of Brian
Schmittling's Daydream being built in Mississippi.
And photos of my build of
the prototype - in progress...
So I decided to try to upscale my Summer Breeze to a 4 sheet boat and see
what it might take to build her with the fewest saw cuts. At first I used
overlapping plywood to the extreme to get the fewest cuts, but the reality is
it's easier to just make a couple of more cuts. But this thought experiment was
fruitful. I strayed from Summer Breeze and ended up with a more plumb bow
sharpie design with both the sheer and the chine being cut as straight lines.
With the use of some simplified build techniques I think she could be built in a
day. I'm getting very excited about this design. I intend to build the
prototype soon and will document how she does.
||This is the way the 4 sheets of plywood are used. The back
and sides are both joined with 4" wide ply butt blocks, glue and
bronze nailed. 16 foot 1x2s (3/4 x1.5") are used for the inner chines
and the rub rails which are attached while the side panels are flat. The
bulkhead is made from overlapping triangles from each side of the bow.
Other than trimming the bottom, and an arched transom if you like, this
boat is made entirely of straight cuts. No lofting! (laying out stations
and connecting the dots) Yet she still has amazing eye appeal... see
||The capacity calculation proved to be impressive. This shows
she draws about 7 inches at 1000 lb displacement notice the stem is
slightly submerged and the transom just touches the water. Some folks,
like Karl Stambough of "Good Skiffs" fame, feel a slightly
immersed bow prevents slapping and increases the water line length, and so
the hull speed.|
This could be made with 4 sheets of 1/4" like Featherwind. Might make
the bottom and transom out of 3/8". Or maybe 2 sheets of 3/8" for the
sides, and 2
sheets of 1/2" for the bottom & transom would make it stouter and require less framing. The added
weight means more stability and more robust, but also a lot more to muscle
around. Depends on whether you intend to trailer her, or car top her. A heavier
boat is less reactive to the shifting weight of the crew. I intend to build the
prototype of 1/4" BC pine ply.
|I didn't end up using the overlapping triangle approach of
my original design. I bent the sides around the middle frame then added
frame 1 and 3. I used 1x3s and ply gussets. They fall 57", 104",
and 151.5" from the bow -
measured along center line.|
(I'll try to get the measurements for marking the sides while flat, but
for now all I have are the center line positions.)
||The center bulkhead gets made in two parts from the bow
bottom sheet. You'd mark the 19.5" dimension and the 52"
dimension and cut them both. Stack them and cut from the 7" mark to
||The resulting triangles stack on top of each other like
this. They are glued and clinch nailed in the overlap. It sits on the 1x4,
3.5" wide 3/4" butt block where the bottom joins. Where it touches the sides,
reinforced with 3/4" x 3/4" cleat stock. A 1x10 seat straddles this bulkhead.
It you use inner chine logs, notches are cut in the corners. The frame
attaches to the sides 12.5" aft of the side butt joint.|
||Greg Carlson's Hull program shows the ideal bulkhead
placement is 96.5 inches
from the bow. In my paper models I've found it also works where the ply
joins. The test build will tell for sure.|
||The stem can be made of a 30" length of clear 2x4
stock. The angle is 43.5, so set your saw to half that. If you want to lay
it out and hand saw it, scribe your cut lines from the middle of the short
side, to 1 7/8" down your long side. If you let it run long above the
rails you can add a hole or a pin for a nice mooring bit.|
||Here's a 3D view that might be clearer.
If you plan to make more than one boat, you can get real tricky and
take the waste pieces you just sawed off and glue them together sawn
surfaces face to face. Now you have a different style of stem ready to
have a boat glued to it!
The rub rails & chine logs are 16' 1x2s and they can be nailed to the
edges on the flat. The butt block is held back to allow room for the inner chine
log. The rub rails can run "wild" (long) at the transom ends,
but should be flush with the bow end, so they don't interfere with each
other when attaching them to the stem.
Inwales and spacers could also be of 1x2 and they might
stiffen it enough to not need more than one bulkhead, particularly if we put in
seat risers and screw in seats.
The keel can be 16 foot 1x2 with a laminated 1/2" skeg coming from the
8"x96" trim of the side sections. 8 foot 1x2 skid rails on either side of the keel would
protect and stiffen the bottom. Two or three foot brace strips running across
the bottom (athwartships) where the rower's feet fall would both facilitate rowing and further
stiffen the bottom. The skeg can be omitted if your primary desire use is as a
sailboat. She'll turn on a dime sailing, but will track less surely while
Laminations and scarfing (like the sides, bottom, skeg and the bulkhead) could be done with #14 3/4"
bronze nails driven into cardboard first, then clinched against a bucking iron.
This would eliminate any wait for glue to dry.
||Another approach that I'm leaning towards is using 1x4 stock
as the butt blocks. One advantage is that no clinching is required.
7/8" bronze nails would work well. This could be the base of the mid
frame as well, and 3/4" square cleats could be PL glued to anchor the
ply of the frame. Here's a rough sketch. Not to scale of course, and only
2 cleats are shown for clarity. Use 3/4" spacers to align the frame
to the sides. Bottom can be scarffed off the boat later.
Note: 12.5" aft of side butt joint.
||Here are her three views. It's challenging to get the hulls
rendition just right. You can't input the side dimensions and have it
generate the model. You have to tweak it a lot to get it close. The paper
model photos are more what the final boat will look like. I found it
tricky to get the plumb bow I wanted in Hulls. I went a little over the
top on photos, but I couldn't decide which ones to use.....sooooo...|
|These two to the right are my latest model. The ones below
are the first one, with a more plumb bow.
Doing the sailing rig very basic is an interesting challenge as well. I'm
thinking a 2x4 mast a la Dave Carnel.
Materials would be something like:
Mast: 12 to 16 foot 2x4 (tapers to 1.5" sq at top)
Spars: 12 ft 2x4 (ripped in two taperd at ends) for yard
and sprit -
Boards: 1/4 sheet (2'x4') 1/2" ply for rudder &
Tiller - 8 ft 1x2 .
Sail: 12'x15' poly tarp (ideally white)
Mast partner: either have one of the 1x10 seats double as
a mast partner or use the 8" ply strip to laminate one.
Misc: 50ft of 1/4" line.. 2' section of 3" pvc
for mast base - double stick fiberglass carpet tape -
||Here's is a way of using a 2x4 mast fitted into a PVC base
so it can still rotate - very useful with a sprit sail rig. This idea
borrowed from Don Hodges' 12
foot Skiff. That removable bolt on mast partner isn't a bad idea
A removable center seat which doubles as a leeboard.
Maybe the simplest approach to a quick sail rig is demonstrated by Fritz Funk
He folds over and trims a polytarp and secures it all with duct tape.
||This slightly modified sketch I borrowed from Dave's
Polytarp Sail site.
Here's a slightly over the edge, but still doable in a
simple way, sail idea.
Fold over, round the mast poly tarp sail, with twin
sprits bungee rigged to the aft side of the mast. Hidden inside the sail
normally, exposed when running wing & wing. The easiest double sprit
rigging I've come up with for this is holes in the ends of 1x2 sprits, on
either side of a fair lead on the aft of the mast. A largish bungee cord
runs through them and around the mast, knotted on top of the fair lead.
By the way, Dave who I mentioned above has a 16' sharpie called Foolhardy
he has a triangular "leg of mutton" sprit sail on. Nice looking
boat - check her out.
||The 87 ft sprit (leg o' mutton) rig left would be a
good choice for the simplest arrangement. Halyard, snotter, and main
sheet. To have good size and "traditional" looks the mast needs
to be longer than the boat. The sprit is well above heads and controls the
The yawl rig to the right leaves the middle of the boat wide open, and
I'm told it's possible to use the sprit of the mizzen like an "air
rudder" and really maneuver her well. The standing lug main could be
loose footed as shown or with a sprit boom.
(This sketch mades the Center of Effort to far forward.)
|Once I ran the numbers it appears the above yawl rig wont
work with a leeboard which has to be at the widest part of the boat. So
far this is the closest I've been able to get, and I don't like how far
back I had to move the main mast. One of the primary attractions to the
yawl layout would be to open up the boat even more. I'll keep working on
||This loose footed sprit is about 90 ft. of sail. This rig
was a favorite of Pet Culler who has written pages on its virtues.
Basically you can fly the most sail area on the shortest spars with the
least rigging. The rig is low aspect, so imparts less heeling forces to
the hull. A loose footed sail like this needs a fairly wide hull to work.
Bolger says 10 degrees off the center line. Dead down wind the sail can
try to close up and misbehave some. Any bad manners it has can be cured by
one more stick. A sprit boom that supports the clew. This can be almost as
"noggin friendly" as the loose footed sail, since the sprit is
above the lower edge of the sail. Mostly just the sail brushes your head
if you aren't paying attention. |
||Here's my latest (9th!) twin sail attempt. Using a variation
on that 90' sprit sail allowed me to get the mast step farther forward.
Raking the Mizzen by having it hug the transom angle actually helped
slightly too. Now the middle of the boat can stay open for lounging,
snacking passengers, and the loose footed sail will spare their noggins.
Along with the leeboard, this may result in a small boat feeling much
bigger than she is. We shall see.....|
||Here's a slight variation on the above. The sails have been
reduced in area and the main mast has been raked 5 degrees. This will
leave a little more space open between the clew of the main and the stern,
even when close hauled. (pointing high into the wind)|
||Here's a pattern if you'd like to print her out and fold her
up. The bulkhead goes on the ply joint line. I used straight
lines for the sheer and the chines. This latest generation has a
slightly less plumb bow. I left the old lines for comparison.|
Back to Simplicityboats Home
4 sheets of 1/4" plywood.
13 - 16' 1x2s (or all the 1x2s could be ripped from one 16' 2x12,
or 2 16' 2x6s -
sometimes the clearest logs are saved for the largest boards so you might
find a nice knot free one.)
The 1x2s are for rails, chines, seat risers, inwales and inwale spacers, frames, keel and bottom skid rails &
1 - 8' 1x4 for butt blocks for bottom and sides - also rip 3/4"
square cleats for frame glue blocks
1 - 10' 1x4 for transom frame
1 - 3' 2x4 for the stem
1 - 3' x 1" hardwood dowel for corner braces - (replaces breast hook
and quarter knees.)
1 - 10' 1x10 for seats
Glue: PL Premium glue & Tightbond II for "dry sailed" boats
or above the water line. (If your boat doesn't live in
the water) Epoxy for boats that will live in the water.
Jim Michalak has written up a great test on boiling plywood and glue
Bronze ring nails 3/4", 7/8" & 1"
Gallon of exterior latex house paint and a quart of trim for rails and
Circular saw, hand saw